Archives for August 2020

When I first started cycling I was adamant I would not be one of those people who were head to toe in colour matching lycra kit.  I am probably not the only person who has done this and now looks at their cycling kit and thinks well I couldn’t have been more wrong – I mean matchy matchy is everything!

But on a serious note cycling specific kit serves a purpose honestly.  I wrote a blog post about my top 5 bib short for cycling that you can read here.  So that was the bottom half and now I am talking about the top half.

You don’t want jerseys too big so they are flapping around, but you want them to be breathable and comfortable.  I mentioned kit having a purpose and you will find different jerseys have different designs but most with back pockets to store food, spares, phone etc and these are much more easily accessible than having to stop to get items from saddle bags as an example.

Now I find jerseys and more specifically the fit is personal preference.  For example, my husband prefers a more fitted jersey and I want to feel like I can breathe!  You will find a lot of brands will offer different designs such as casual fit, close fit, aero, light and heavier weight fabrics and much more including some with material that help protect from the sun too.  Being larger chested I often find sizing can be awkward and have experienced kit in the past that will fit around the bust and be too big elsewhere.  So here are my favourite cycling jerseys:

Foher – in addition to my ambassador kit from last year and this year my favourite is the Pegasus kit.  This will be no shock if you follow me – just take a look at the design, its gorgeous!  For my UK friends I would note that the size comes up smaller than ours so I would advise whatever you take here, you may want to consider sizing up.  Washes great and what I love most of all from the kit from Foher is that it is so different from the kit available elsewhere in the UK and really stands out!

BioRacer – I have a lot of kit from BioRacer and all fab but hands down my favourite is my custom kit.  This kit never fails!  Good for all rides – short or long, washes fab and lasts for years!  I mean literally years – I have not had the custom kit for that long yet but other same cut/fit I do and it’s literally as good as new.  You can see below another style similar as an example.

Fat Lad At the Back – as I mentioned I am larger chested and so find sizing for jerseys can sometimes be an issue.  This brand has a female arm called Fat Lass At The Back and the female jerseys don’t come in standard sizing.  Instead they go by bust size so you literally select the same inch measurement as you would for the bra you wear and the result is such a comfortable fit.  I have a number but my favourite would have to be the ride for cake jersey.

Stomp The Pedal – I have the signature jersey in guess what colour?  Neon pink of course!  Tarsh (the founder of this brand) most definitely lets her personality shine through her collections and I love how bright and different they are.  The pink is very me and as such matches a lot of my other kit and bikes too.  Similar to the Foher kit I would perhaps size up in this fit.

Specialized – I have a couple of jerseys from Specialized and can’t fault it one bit both in terms of design and comfort.  I am actually looking at some of their off road jerseys for my gravel bike so will be checking out what they have on offer for that cycling discipline too.  Here is another jersey I have which is similar and again fab – also need this one in grey as my friend has it and I have kit envy!

Liv – this jersey was a gift from a friend and is more of a classic design but the fit is fab and very comfortable when cycling.  It also goes with all the black bib shorts I have so win win!  However, sadly not available on their website any longer.

DHB – this is Wiggle own brand and again like I mentioned for some of the above I really like some of their brighter kits.  A lot of their kit is also much cheaper compared to some other brands but the quality is still fab.  They have a number of items in their current sale at the moment too, which is where I got the jersey in the below photo from!

All of the above jerseys are comfortable, wash fantastic and very importantly for me don’t move around whilst riding!  I cannot stand wearing jerseys that move up and down whilst riding as I spend too much time trying to pull them back down again and well lets face it that is just annoying!

Some of the items mentioned above were gifted, however, all opinions are my own.

When you ride do you find you ever get numbness in the fingers or hands?  I know I do, especially on longer rides and it is actually very common!

When I first started cycling I was on a group ride and it had been explained to me the various hand signals that I may see being used and what they meant.  Obviously it takes a while to get to grips with these but most are self explanatory.  However, the kind gentleman who I was following during the ride had pointed out holes, parked cars to indicate he was moving out into the road, and indicated slowing but when he started shaking his right hand I went into panic mode and was frantically searching the road surface for some kind of debris or obstacle and there was nothing.  Shortly after we stopped and I asked what he was indicating to and he said nothing his hand was numb ha ha (yeah I felt a bit stupid).  But I find myself doing the same thing when I get numb hands by shaking them out.

So what causes this when cycling?  There are a number of things that can cause this but the two most common being handlebar palsy (otherwise known as cyclists palsy) and sometimes carpel tunnel syndrome though this is more rare.  Sounds a bit medical right?  So if we take it back to basics a little both are effectively caused by compression of nerves (radial, medial and ulnar) and this is largely because when riding you may (mostly unknowingly or unintentionally) find you are putting pressure on your wrists/hands when cycling.

There will be instances that are unavoidable such as poor road surface or roads that are cobbled as they will inevitably cause vibrations that will travel up the bike frame to the bars and ultimately your hands and this can also cause tingling and numbness over a period of time.

There are many things that can help with this, such as:

• Bike fit – I am a huge advocate of a proper bike fit!  The smallest of changes can make such a positive difference to your riding experience, prevent injuries and give more enjoyment whilst riding.  I won’t go into detail here but I do have a separate blog posts that goes into the importance of a bike fit in more detail that you can read here.  With regards to numbness you could find you may benefit from checking brake and handlebar position, which could play a part especially if they are too high/low or close/far from you.  It could also be related to seat height.
• Strong core – the better your core, the less you will be leaning heavily and applying pressure on the handlebars when cycling so there is work that can be done off the bike to see benefits whilst on it too.  A good strong core should be able to see you able to ride using just fingertips or even hands free – though maybe practice on a turbo and keep safe on the road!
• Gloves – I do believe this is personal preference.  I always wear gloves when riding but I know others who don’t like or feel the need for them and neither is right or wrong but could protect you in the case of an accident.  However, if you do suffer from numbness in the hands or fingers then the padding in some gloves may be of a benefit to you.  The padding in the gloves are normally placed exactly where you will have more pressure in the riding position and done so in order to stop compression of the nerves that cause this. My glove of choice is the summer mitts from BioRacer.
• Arm position – you may have cycled before and heard the term chicken wings?  You should not be in a position where your arms are fully out stretched and rigid.  You should have relaxed shoulders and a slight bend in the elbow and be able to hold the bars and move your arms a bit like a chicken wing.  This is a result of a relaxed upper body position.
• Hand/Handlebar position/movement – when I ride I ride on my hoods but when climbing I shift my hand position to the tops so you naturally have pressure on different areas.  I rarely (if ever) use my drops but that would be another position also.  You would be less likely to experience this if riding in a time trial position or using TT bars because of the position on the bike being so different and having different pressure points.
• Handlebars – the bike I currently ride has aerobars and I find these to be the most comfortable I have used whilst cycling as there is more surface area to navigate and use for different riding positions.
• Bar tape – not just to look good but also for comfort and you will notice a difference if using super thing tape on your bars.  I am currently riding with Specialized bar tape but I am also a fan of Lizard Skin too, both of which have a cushion that I find comfortable.

Happy cycling!

I was cycling recently and one stretch of road had some truly awful road surface with so many holes, wide cracks and uneven surface on the left hand side where I would normally be positioned when riding.  I had to indicate several times to move out to the right and thankfully the driver behind me was very patient and this was not an issue.  Shortly after we came to a set of traffic lights and it was red so I stopped and the driver pulled up beside me.  They politely asked why I kept moving out and so I explained that the holes and cracks that he could drive over in a car could have terrible consequences for a cyclist.  He said that made sense and when the lights changed we both set off on our way.

Now don’t get me wrong there are some terrible cyclists out there, but there are also some terrible drivers so lets not tar everyone with the same brush as there could be a very plausible reason.  There are so many things like what I outlined above, that I am sure are unknown to those who do not cycle and so I thought I would list a few and share why cyclists may behave differently on the road to a car user.

• Potholes – as mentioned earlier a hole that a vehicle could easily drive over could cause an accident with horrible consequences for a cyclist.  This could cause punctures, bent wheels or cause a flip off the bike.  You may see a cyclist move further out into the road, after indicating and when safe, to avoid such obstacles.
• Manhole covers – particularly dangerous when wet, especially on slick road tyres, as they can cause wheels the slide but also can be sunk into the ground and have the same effect as potholes so similar behaviour may be observed as mentioned above.
• Speed bumps – the same as a car driver, a cyclist needs to anticipate the obstacle whilst also checking the road surface on the other side so you may notice a cyclist lower their speed before going over speed bumps.
• Cycle paths – I commute on the CS3 and it is great to have a safe space to cycle that separates the car users and cyclists, however, if there are roadworks the signs are very often put in the cycle path.  These paths are not cleaned that often either and more often than not end up with debris that can cause accidents and punctures.  The surface can (as is the case on the CS3) be savage in winter when the wet and the result of cold weather such as icy surfaces can make bike handling particularly difficult.  As per rule no 63 of the Highway Code it is not a legal requirement to use a cycle path so cyclists may choose not to do so, so you may see cyclists opt to ride in the road if it is the safer option to do so.  The design speed on these paths is 12mph as per London Cycle Design Standards and a lot of cyclists will exceed this.  cycle paths are also intermittent and will very rarely, if at all, take a cyclist from their start to end destination and this could be another reason they opt not to use them and instead use a different route.
• Railway crossings – same principle for cyclists as car users in that if barriers are down they must stop and wait and when riding across maintaining your line is key so wheels do not get caught and wedged on the tracks so you may find a cyclist may move out slightly to ensure they go over at the right angle.  Cyclists may even need to dismount and walk across depending on the angle of the tracks for safety.
• Cattle grids – these are more common when cycling off road but I have had to cross these on a number of events and if I am honest they terrify me!  Mostly the same principle as railway crossings apply, however, on some the gaps can be way too wide for a road bike and so you may see people choose to get off their bike and walk over to be safe.
• Cobbles – again super slippery when wet and depending on the gap between the cobbles, cyclists need to ensure they maintain momentum to avoid having an accident or fall.  If a wheel were to jam between the gap the momentum you had up until that point would more than likely see you going over your handlebars.  They may also increase the gear, which can slow the speed slightly but this is to ensure the chain does not slip.
• Traffic lights – same rules for all road users so if it is red then you stop and wait!! It is key for cyclists to be aware of vehicles on the road with them and vice versa especially when you may be travelling forward and a vehicle next to you may turn left across your path.  Rule no 69 and 71 of the Highway Code cements that all traffic signals and signs are to be obeyed.
• Puddles – never trust them as a cyclist as you can’t see what is underneath!  Much the same principle as potholes so you may see a cyclist indicate to move out to avoid it in the road and that is the reason why.
• Riding two abreast – in line with the Highway Code it is suggested to ride two abreast so there is a shorter distance for vehicles to overtake.  This of course should be exercised with common sense and changed to single file especially in more urban areas, narrow roads and around corners.
• Road tax – that old favourite that cyclists don’t pay road tax, well neither do cars.  It was abolished in the 1930’s and now emissions tax is paid and bikes have no emissions hence no fee required.
• It’s illegal to ride on the road – I have been told this by drivers a number of times and it is just incorrect.  Rule no 64 of the Highway Code states that cyclists must not cycle on a pavement.  Very often car users would prefer for cyclists to ride on the pavements and cyclists will wonder why other cyclists are riding on the pavements and not the road?!
• Hand signals – cyclists use a number of hand signals when riding with others.  If you are not a cyclist you may drive behind one thinking what on earth are they doing.  Mostly this is to indicate the direction they are going so other road users are aware, but it could also be to point out holes or obstacles, indicate if there is a car parked and they need to move out in the road, hold their hand up or pushing down gesture to signal stopping or slowing down, or gesture to vehicles behind that it is safe to overtake.
• Horses – cyclists should slow down if approaching a horse rider on the road and this should be done regardless of what direction you are approaching it.  Cyclists should keep pedalling but slow down and not freewheel as the sound can scare the horse.  They will pass carefully and wide.
• Parked cars – cyclists may allow ample space between them and a parked car just in case of opening car doors so you may notice cyclists move out further into the road as they pass parked cars and this is the reason why.
• Riding out of the gutter – it is believed that cyclists should be positioned right next to the gutter/pavement when on the road and most cyclists will position themselves to the left.  However, cyclists are within their right to cycle on the road and the gutter is where debris collects and so it is often the safer choice to position yourself just outside of that so that is why you may see a cyclist choose to ride slightly further out in the road.
• Wind – the effect of wind on a cyclist can cause your position to shift especially if you are passing a gap in a hedge, for example, and a crosswind appears suddenly.  As a cyclist I can honestly say my last wish is to be a hazard to other road users and involuntary movement is often scary but out of our control.
• Being visible – as a cyclist I prefer to be safe and seen and will always use adequate lights and reflective clothing when necessary.  I do not want to assume another road user has seen me and this assists with that.  Rule no 60 of the Highway Code states cyclist must have a white front light and red rear light lit.
• Bus lanes – if road signs indicate it is permitted then cyclists may use the bus lane.  On my commute there is a busy road in London that I always opt to use the bike lane as it is safer and I ensure I pass any parked buses with care in case a pedestrian is walking in front.

As a cyclist I can honestly say I do not wish to hold up other road users at all.  There is nothing worse than being on your bike knowing you are holding people up, especially if there is no obvious passing place or safe place to stop.

There are a number of resources available online on this matter as follows:

• Royal Society for Prevention of Accidents – Sharing the Road Together
• Highway Code – Code for Cyclists
• AA – How Drivers Can Share The Road With Cyclists
• A number of resources available for cycling guidance from British Cycling

Happy cycling, and driving!  Let’s all share the road in a positive way.