Love them or hate them turbo trainers definitely serve a purpose for cycle training.  It may be that with recent dire weather it is safer to continue training indoors than risk coming off in the severe wind and rain we have been experiencing in the UK, or you may opt to use a turbo trainer to get in a more structured workout.  I have had this post in my drafts since February but given the current situation with COVID-19 I know I for one have been using mine more then ever and so it seemed timely to post.

I have included detail previously about how I use my turbo trainer to get in more structured workouts that are better completed using a turbo trainer than on the road where there are too many variables.

Depending on the sort of turbo trainer you use you could see a difference in performance compared to on the road.  As noted above this can be down to variables outside of your control.  What do I mean by variables?  I mean stopping at junctions and traffic lights, build up of traffic, weather, diversions, punctures or mechanical’s to name a few.  The other difference (which honestly can be huge) is whether or not you are not using a smart trainer.  One of our first turbo trainers that I used was not a smart trainer and you controlled the resistance yourself and I could do an hour session and my average speed would be 25mph and upwards.  This is not my ability when on the road (I wish)!  It was a massive shock to the system when i got a smart trainer let me tell you!

So what is a smart trainer?  When you use a smart turbo trainer you will connect to some technology to help you get more from your workout.  These turbo trainers will adjust the resistance according to the workout so for example if you are on a hilly course the resistance will increase to simulate the same effort as if you were on the road and riding up a hill.  You will also hear the term ERG mode and this basically means that the trainer adjusts the resistance for you to help you hit a certain target power level without needing to change gear.

Some people opt for standard turbo trainers and use these with power meters though you will not experience the change in resistance as mentioned above and you will need to change gears to replicate this yourself.  With a standard turbo trainer you will not be able to connect to programmes such as Zwift, Sufferfest or Trainer Road (or similar) unless you have additional items like cadence sensor or speed sensor.

Of course smart trainers are more expensive but once you have experienced the difference between the two you will almost certainly be sold on the smart trainer, or at least speaking from personal experience I can say that is true for me.

We have had a number of turbo trainers to date including the following:

• Rollers – Tacx Antares £164.99.  Now rollers require balance and are something of a fine art, in my opinion, which is why I have never used them!  My husband, however, has (albeit also needing some time to master them) and they do not attach to the bike in any way, you simply ride on the rollers.
• Smart rollers – Elite Arion Smart B digital £348 – these are my husbands and no I would not attempt these as I would be on the floor pretty quickly but I am always pretty mesmerised by those who use rollers and appear to do so effortlessly with perfect balance!  Smart rollers like a smart turbo will adjust resistance so balance and power are required at the same time here.
• Turbo Trainer – Tacx Blue Matic magnetic turbo trainer £139.99.  This is a trainer where you leave your rear wheel on the bike and attach to the trainer.  I’d recommend using a turbo tyre for this as the make up on them is slightly different and they are designed to stop overheating.
• Smart fixed wheel turbo trainer – Bkool Smart Go.  Like the above where you leave the rear wheel on but have the additional functionality of resistance from being a smart trainer.
• Smart direct drive turbo trainer – Wahoo Kickr £999 – we have two of these, which sounds like a massive luxury but we first got one 5 years ago and it is still going strong and as we often find we both are training on this equipment we invested in a second so my husband and I have one each.  Direct drive turbos are basically where you mount your bike directly on the turbo by removing the back wheel.  Your chain will then run on the cassette attached to the trainer.

Now some turbo trainers can be loud!  I have friends that were worried to use at home for fear of upsetting the neighbours.  We are lucky ours are in our home gym so won’t offend anyone and to be honest I am so used to it now I couldn’t tell you if they are noisy or not.

I have a mat under mine as I find it is a total sweat fest.  Invest in some good padded bib shorts, always have a hand towel, bottle of water and a fan!

If you have someone who will write you a plan and sessions that are tailored for your training then fabulous!  If not you can do an FTP test and follow one of the many plans from the programme you choose and they are also very effective.  I use Zwift and there are different routes and sessions available to use.  Doing an FTP will ensure you are getting the most from the workout at the levels that are suitable for you.  Handy hint – there is no need to do the long FTP test – it has a longer warm up period and that is it, the short version complete serves the purpose!  I also have friends who do the Ramp Test instead of FTP though I have not yet tried this so cannot comment.

I am on week three of working from home and I have been starting every day with an hour on the turbo trainer, which has started my day nicely though I do need to remind myself to rest also!  My husband and I also thought it was funny to call this our daily commute (the pic was a joke and we do not actually wear our helmets, coats or bags!).

Do you have a turbo trainer? Love it or hate it?

CADENCE! It’s the favourite thing for my husband to say to me when on the bike, mainly because I train to cadence and my sweet spot, that I’m used to, is always a lower than it should be. He says it makes for more efficient riding and to help make me a more consistent cyclist.  I know this and what he is saying,  but as I said it is my sweet spot and where I feel most comfortable when riding but this doesn’t stop him shouting this at me with a smile on his face.

I push a big gear – always have and I know it’s not the most efficient but I find spinning leaves me with lower power and speed. But pushing a tough gear leaves me fatigued quicker.  Think of it as a barbell on your shoulders and you have to hold this and do squats for 10 minutes straight, you wouldn’t go for your max weight, you’d choose a weight which is still a challenge but you can complete for the whole time.  However, I also find on hills (which is the area I struggle most on the bike) that I get up them just slower than others, even on the recent Zwift race series I completed, I found I could hold my own until I hit a hill and at these points I would gradually see people pass me. I should probably concentrate on that cadence a little more and better gear selection as this will enable me to be more consistent on them hills, which I love so much.

So what is cadence?  In the basic form cadence is the number of revolutions (complete turns) of the crank per minute and the rate which you are turning the pedals as you ride (revolutions per minute, RPM).  The theory behind training using cadence is to improve efficiency when cycling.  If you ride a bike you will have cadence and if you have a bike computer you will be able to see what your cadence is as you ride by using a cadence sensor.

Some people train off heart rate, some off power, some off cadence and some off feel.  There are pros and cons to each and my advice would always be for people to do what works for them, but give them all a go and see what works for you and hopefully you’ll see an improvement  We are all different and what works for one may not be right for someone else.  I don’t have a power meter on my road bike though I do use power when using my indoor turbo trainer as it has the ability measure it.

If you find you are bouncing about on your saddle as you cycle then you are probably in a gear with very little resistance and this results in a very high cadence. If you are struggling turning the pedals then you are probably in a gear with a very high resistance resulting in a very low cadence.  The idea of using cadence will see you cycling for optimum efficiency to your own ability.  I choose to cycle off cadence as my main rides for this year, and recent years, are endurance events and I want to ensure that I will complete those in the most efficient way possible.  No one wants to finish an event feeling absolutely ruined and for me I have found cadence really helps me.

When cycling to a higher cadence of between 80-90 its very important to find the gear that you can just keep spinning in.  This gear will be one that you can still feel a resistance in but isn’t high enough that you cant manage for most of your ride and you tire very quickly in.  The theory behind this is that if you can spin at 85 RPM you should be able to do this on any gradient as long as you choose the correct gear selection.  Obviously if you are going up a hill and in your easiest gear, small ring at the front and big at the back, and can’t hit your rate (this is the area I need work in) there’s nothing you can do other than your best.  The only time you can afford to push a big gear and low cadence is going downhill, as you have gravity working for you.  If you are exhausted at the top of the hill its very important to pedal on the way down to aid recovery as well.

That is not to say sessions with low cadence and high cadence do not have their place in a training schedule either as they certainly do.  Some sessions, often referred to as high gear, will see low cadence and  high resistance, and this can help develop both core and leg strength.  Equally a session using lower gears will see high cadence and can help with cardiovascular fitness and smooth pedal stroke.

You may have heard of the saying ‘spin to win’ and this is something I say going up hills!  But this is said with cadence in mind – spin up in a gear that is manageable in order to preserve energy.

Although research into this area will largely see numerous stats that focus on optimal cadence being between 80 to 90 RPM, I have not included a breakdown of figures because this will differ for various reasons but some of which are:

• type of riding
• level of ability
• training or event
• performance
• fatigue

And, of course, as always when riding outside the conditions you ride in dictate performance – there are so many variable factors with weather and traffic to name a couple that will always affect performance results but above all enjoy riding.

Happy spinning!

How do you carry those essentials for cycling?  Do you put them in your jersey pockets?  Do you have a tool holder that looks like a bottle and sits in one of your bottle cages?  Or do you use a saddle bag?

My choice is a saddle bag.  I do have a tool holder but for longer rides I would prefer to use the bottle cages to carry two bottles and I would rather not have everything stuffed in my jersey pockets though so admit to putting food in my pockets because well snacks!

So my bike set up for a normal ride would/could include the following depending on distance:

• 1 or 2 bottles in the cages
• saddle bag
• top tube bag for longer rides for easy access to nutrition for fuelling

I used to use an Ortlieb saddle bag but have since moved that to my winter/commute bike and my summer bike now has a Lezyne saddle bag as below:

• Ortleib Micro – fastens with a roll top end and stretchy cords, waterproof and not too big but definitely not the smallest either, can fit a spare inner tube, levers, tool, canister and adaptor and more (can find this bag for £23.99 here)
• Lezyne M – fastens with a zip, waterproof and pouch on the outside to fit the Lezyne multi tool, very compact though fits a spare inner tube, levers, tool, canister and adaptor, this bag also has a small reflective strip on the bag too (can find this bag for £19.49 here)

Both of the above bags fit by a mounting system that attaches to the saddle rails with an attachment on the bag to slide and secure on the fitting as below:

So what do I put in my saddle bag?  Knowing many cyclists I see the different things people take with them on rides – sometimes not enough and sometimes way more than necessary (in my opinion).  Here is what I carry in mine:

• Spare inner tube – if I can fit it in the bag in the box I do, so that if I am unlucky and have an issue with my tyre (especially the side wall as I have seen this happen to others before) I can use some of the cardboard to line the tyre to get me to the end of my ride, some people take a small piece from an old tyre.  Also remember if you have different bikes to ensure you have the correct inner tube as they come in different sizes with different valve lengths, for example I have a winter bike with normal rims and a summer bike with deep rims and so I couldn’t use the same inner tubes for both.  I ended up having separate saddle bags for each bike for ease and not having to swap items out or try and remember to do so, which is too easy to forget.
• CO2 gas canister – not a must for everyone as some people carry a small hand pump but I don’t, and for ease always opt for the gas, just be careful when you use it or keep your gloves on as they get super cold!  Again if you have different bikes (more road versus MTB then make sure you pack the right ones – I use 16 gram for my road bike).  Just remember if you do use a gas canister that when you get home to deflate your tyre and pump up again with a track pump as the gas will lose pretty quickly with at least half the inflated PSI overnight!
• CO2 gas canister adaptor/inflator – I have a small adaptor that screws on to the top of the canister. I know others that have a CO2 inflator and the benefit of this is not getting frozen fingers and also being able to release as much or as little has you want/need.
• Tyre levers – I have always opted for plastic rather than metal so I don’t damage my wheels.
• Multi tool – just in case as you never know when you might need it.  Some people carry more like a chain breaker though I admit I don’t.
• Depending on the length of the ride I may also add a spare individual sachet of chamois cream .
• Disposable gloves – I often forget to replace these but if I remember I have a pair also just in case so I am not covered in lube/grease/wax if I have a mechanical or chain slip.
• Pre-glued patches – I don’t personally carry these in my saddle bag but do know others that do and you can use these if you puncture more than once and for minor tyre repairs too.

I have not yet tried my hand at bike packing so the bags and use I reference are based on the sort of road riding I do and there are a whole other range of bags for other types of riding!

Happy cycling!

This is an oldie but it’s that time of year when it can come in handy so I dig it out and refresh it.

Despite the fact that we are now entering the cooler months that doesn’t need to be a reason to put your bike away.  They say there is no such thing as bad weather but more bad clothing choices and this is very true.

I have previously published a post about winter cycling kit that you can read here.  But I thought I would update that with the following:

Over the past weeks the temperature has definitely dropped and this has called for additional layers as well as it being darker in the morning and evening too – gone are those sunset evening rides for sure!  Here are my top kit picks for winter:

Gillet – I have a gilet from BioRacer and it is one of my most favourite pieces of my cycling kit.  Great as an extra layer especially when it is not cold enough for a winter jacket but as an addition to a jersey.  My gilet is custom through my cycling club kit orders but are available on the BioRacer website also.

Base layer – I am a fan of the Craft FuseKnit top, which I reviewed for Healthy Living London and you can read here.  I was gifted the top but have since purchased a second one.  Really versatile item not just specific to cycling and I have used for running and hiking also.  

Arm Warmers – again mine are custom through my cycling club kit orders but are available on the BioRacer website also.  Another great piece for layering that are easy to put on and remove.  The technology from BioRacer means that water beads off these. They are priced at £25 per pair.  I also have these arm warmers by Pinnacle from Evans, which are great and in the half priced sale at the moment for £15.

Gloves – these tend to be very personal preference but I like the Endura Nemo glove (£29.99) though do wear glove liners as you can get sweaty and if I am honest sweaty hands can be stinky!  But they do stay warm, which is the biggest thing – nothing worse than not feeling your fingertips when on the bike.  These gloves by Pinnacle from Evans, I have I do not wear liners with, they have a wider cuff with velcro strap and this makes it super easy to get on and off too, and they are in the sale for £25.

Headband – my ears are always the first thing to feel cold and so when the chill sets in I make sure my ears are covered.  I wear a cycling cap usually and tend to move first to a headband and like the Endura thermal headband which is priced at £20 .  I also have some from Decathlon who have a huge range starting from £1.99 that can be found here.

Hat – going back to cold ears, if I find a headband doesn’t cut it then a warm cycling hat it is and although not cheap at £60, I have a Rapha ‘deep winter’ hat that is just amazing but sadly no longer sold although I have seen a very similar one from BioRacer that is £45!

Buff – can get these everywhere now and can be worn so many ways!  I tend to use as a neck warmer though have used as a head band also and pulled over to cover my head and neck when really cold.  This buff by Pinnacle from Evans also has reflective accents so good for visibility too and in the sale at £7.50.

Overshoes – again mine are custom through my cycling club kit orders but are available on the BioRacer website also.  Much like the arm warmers the technology from BioRacer means that water beads off these. There are many types of overshoes and I have toe covers from Castelli and have previously tried the more rubber type covers though found these easy to rip and tear.  A new addition to my kit are these overshoes by Pinnacle from Evans and they have been great especially in recent weeks – even if it is dry sometimes the roads are wet so good overshoes are super valuable, currently in the sale for £20 and if you prefer toe covers then they also have those in the sale for £10 and I have used these on both my MTB shoes and road shoes and fit perfectly on both.

Bib tights – cover up those legs or expect cold pins!  My favourites are again from BioRacer and like a lot of my kit I have custom through my cycling club for club kit but as they are just so brilliant I got a further pair.  They are the tempest range and as noted above same as the arm warmers and overshoes the material means that water beads off.  They are also thermal lined so cosy too!  I have written a blog post reviewing some bib tights that you can read here.

Jacket – another item that is custom through my cycling club kit orders but are available on the BioRacer website also.  I was recently gifted an updated version of a tempest BioRacer jacket that costs £175.  These jackets are fine during winter months with just a base layer underneath.  They also have some reflective parts which are a really nice touch.

I also have a rain jacket from BioRacer that is very lightweight, packs down small and I can attach above my saddle bag so it is there if I get caught out whilst I am cycling.

Hi-vis – I am a firm believer in staying safe and staying seen.  I was recently gifted a jacket from Pro Viz who are known for their super reflective fabrics.  When the light shines on the material it literally lights up.  The jacket I have is £89.99 and can be found here.  I also have a bag cover in this too, which is £29.99.  For commuting especially these are brilliant as an extra safety measure so I am visible on the road and cycle paths.  

Lights – it is surprising how dark it is early in the morning and how quickly it gets dark in the evenings so good lights are key.  There are many lights on the market though I got this light from Bontrager last year and although the price tag is £99 it is really bright and the battery is fab.  As I commute and take part in events that go through the night a good light for me is a wise investment.

Glasses – don’t forget the glasses as well.  You may find some of the lenses in your glasses used during summer can be changed to yellow or clear lenses.  The yellow lens is great for low light or overcast conditions and clear are perfect for night riding, although I opt for the clear for the majority of my winter riding.

Don’t forget your skin!  I use this Premax Weather Defence cream and it can be a lifesaver – I find the winter wind chill can really leave my skin feeling sore and this cream really helps stop that.

Lock – my winter riding is either on my gravel or MTB.  They are heavier, pace is slower, but that doesn’t mean there is no cafe stop.  I’ve found this compact lock from Hiplok to be great and can be stored in a jacket pocket or bike bag.

Tyres – there will be a million different opinions on this but it stands to reason to choose appropriate for the weather.  The fact is that the wet washes more flint, stones and everything else on the road and this causes punctures.  I ride Continental 4 Seasons all year round and find them great.  My new bike came with S-Works tyres and I replaced with the Continental 5000 as recommended by a friend and had a very positive review on Cycling Weekly here.

Chains – one that may get forgotten but your bike and its components will get dirtier in the winter months given the change in weather and if you have not looked at it before I can’t recommend NRG Chains enough.  Waxed chains that will see an improvement in performance and stay cleaner too.  I would note this company is run my good friends of mine but I happily pay for their services and would highly recommend.

Bike – if you are fortunate enough to have different summer and winter bikes you will find this time of year is when you check the forecast and make a judgement as to which bike you want to be using and over coming months it is more than likely the summer bike will be hung up for a while.

Happy winter cycling!

Some of the items noted in this post were gifted but all opinions are my own.

Following on from my post yesterday about cycling abroad, some of the questions I received were around what sort of kit you should take when travelling to cycle abroad.

It is a good question and again I know I harp on about personal experience but it really can be invaluable and so I have put together a checklist that may be of help to people but would caveat that I am a road cyclist and so depending on the type of cycling you are doing ie if off road then this would need to be adapted accordingly:

1. Bike – if you are taking your own then yes this is pretty key.  If not then research local bike hire companies and arrange in advance – I have been to training camp in Lanzarote a couple of times now when it is busy and people assume there will be bikes available but they are all booked up.
2. Bike shoes – I ride with cleats and if you do too then shoes are essential.  Again if you are hiring a bike I would always take my own pedals and shoes.  If you wear trainers then pack those!
3. Saddle – if you are taking your own bike then this is a given and should be packed with your bike when transporting but if you are hiring this is another thing you can take and put on a hire bike.  Saddles are personal and for comfort, especially if you are doing long rides, taking your own can make a huge difference.
4. Saddle bag – in my saddle bag I would always carry two spare inner tubes, two gas canisters, gas canister attachment, tyre leavers, multi-tool, disposable gloves and spare sachet of chamois cream.  That sounds like a lot but it isn’t and packs down in a relatively compact saddle bag that I have from Lezyne.
5. Kit – plan your kit for your days riding.  I don’t like to wear bib shorts more than once so take as many sets as days I am cycling – alternatively take travel wash and re-use.  In addition to bib shorts, jerseys, gloves and socks, I also pack a gillet, arm warmers, base layer, rain jacket and potentially a buff (these things are so versatile).  I have learned that a sunny climate doesn’t always mean it will be dry or warm especially if climbing and being cold at the start can be hard to then warm up and make a long uncomfortable ride so plan accordingly and the additional kit I mention is easy to pack away in a jersey pocket if not needed.
6. Helmet – I never ride without one.  If I was hiring a bike I would also opt to take my own helmet.
7. Chamois cream – not something used by everyone but I do use this and wouldn’t go on a cycling trip without it!
8. P20 – I am super pale and burn so easily so my sun cream is often the centre of jokes as I tend to go for a factor that you would put on a baby.  Being out on the bike on long rides in the sun you do of course get sweaty and so I tend to use P20 so I apply before I leave and I am sorted for the day.  I don’t really want to be carrying more than what I need including sun cream lotion!
9. Watter bottles – again judge the climate you are in and the distance you are riding and take what you need.  I tend to take two bottles with me so I know I will hydrate properly and can refill on route if necessary.
10. Sunglasses – I need these when cycling for sure especially in the sun.
11. Nutrition – I always take mine and whilst I am sure you can buy on arrival I like to use the nutrition I train with at home.  The one slight difference may be certain bars that might melt in the sun compared to in the UK but otherwise I stick to what I know.  I also put my gels in the bottles in the bike box so if there is an explosion it is contained in the bottle and doesn’t go over the bike or any clothing.  I always use electrolytes but if I was doing a short ride at home I may just use water though when abroad in the heat I always use electrolytes – just because a ride is shorter doesn’t mean it won’t be super hot or a much higher elevation so important to replace the salts.
12. Wahoo Bolt – or whatever bike computer you use, with the mount and any chargers.
13. ID bracelet – I have a band from One Life ID, which I use at home but also make sure I take with me when travelling too – can never be too careful!  This has all my in case of emergency details on it.
14. Track pump – this is another thing we pack in our bike box.  If you are going somewhere like a training camp they will have these there but we tend to pack ours as a matter of course.
15. Chargers – I have Di2 electric gearing on my bike and my husband as SRAM Red so whilst we charge everything before a trip we often pack the chargers just in case.
16. Tools – this is personal but my husband always packs certain tools not just for rebuilding and packing the bikes but as a just in case of mechanicals etc.  Now this is weight dependent as it can get heavy quickly and once again if on a training camp there should be facilities for this to be used if needed (though not intentionally there for bike builds necessarily) but we pack as a back up.
17. Phone case – I ride with a phone wallet at home but make sure I have this in my kit list too so I have my phone with me whilst cycling and it is protected from the rain etc in my jersey pocket.

I have only included cycling kit in the above list and left off anything obvious like passports etc and anything you may pack for days off the bike.

I hope that helps!  Happy cycling!

 

 

Have you ever cycled abroad?  Interested to do so?  Not sure where to start?  I have seen many posts recently about cycling holidays and training camps and ended up in a discussion with some on Instagram about a recent trip I had to Sweden and got on to the subject of other countries I had been to, which prompted this post.

My husband does triathlon and this often means travel abroad with bikes.  There is a lot involved with a trip for something like this so with registration, race briefing, practice swim, shake out run I often take my bike and use the time to cycle.  So I thought I would do a round up of where I have been.

• Dubai – very busy main roads in the city centre itself near the Jumeirah beach area (with some places actually illegal to cycle) we got a cab about 30 minutes out to visit the Al Qudra Cycle Track.  I didn’t actually take my bike on this trip but at the start of the track there is a Trek hire bike shop so a quick stop and we were on our way though advance booking of 72 hours is recommended.  The track is 86km in total though you can do just part of it and don’t have to ride the whole thing – there are options of a 50km loop from the Trek store, you can add a 20-30km extension or do a 16km out and back.  We were there in January and it was hot, as expected, but there are sporadic shelter stops – not cafes but areas that you can stop should you need to.  Some of the track is like a false flat but otherwise it is flat. The scenery is pretty much just desert but the dedicated track is such an awesome thing to have and is popular with many cyclists and you may even see some camels as you ride, which is not uncommon!

• Austria – we drove (I won’t be doing that again – was very long!) as this was for my husbands IronMan in Klagenfurt near Lake Worthersee that is pretty much not that close to any one airport.  Although people think this is flat (I have heard many comments on this) bear in mind there are a lot of ski resorts which means hills and sometimes mountains.  It is absolutely stunning though, jaw droppingly beautiful and somewhere I would return in an instant.

France – we got the ferry which meant no dismantling and rebuilding of bikes which was a welcome change.  I cycled in Chantilly and it was relatively flat with some undulating sections.  Gorgeous scenery and so many chateaus that we passed.  A number of streets with cobbled sections, especially in the middle of the road which mean care had to be taken on corners.  I am sure most people head to France for the hills, which I cannot comment on as I have no personal experience but cycling in this area was beautiful.

Sweden –  possibly my favourite so far.  I have done the Vatternrundan, that leaves from Motala, twice now and this year also the Tjejvattern and Halvvattern, which you can read about here.  I also took part in the Ironman Jonkoping 70.3 this year.  Sweden has a huge cycling culture.  Another interesting fact about Sweden is that approximately two thirds of Sweden’s land area is covered by forest and there are so many lakes too so wherever you cycle you are likely to be greeted by gorgeous countryside views and landscapes.  My experience here is mostly flat, some undulating parts and one mountain but that is just my experience.

Lanzarote – my experience here has been training camp at Club La Santa with Havering Tri, which you can read a bit more about here.  It is hilly! And windy – wind like I have never experienced before.  Always tough riding but feel so much stronger when I return home (though tired too).

If you are looking at a cycling holiday I would advise the following:

• What sort of riding are you intending to do; road, mountain biking, touring/bike packing and then plan accordingly as different locations may be better for one or the other.
• Do you need to hire a bike?  If so research local rental shops and book in advance knowing if you need/want to take your own items for example if I was hiring a bike I would take my own pedals and helmet.
• Are you going for an event – this is often easier as the location/date/time/distance etc is set for you.
• What sort of training are you looking to do; routes that are flat or hilly and pick a location accordingly ie I wouldn’t advise Lanzarote if you are looking for flat routes.  You may also wish to change your bike set up if going to a climbing destination for a cassette with an easier gear ratio more suitable for hill work.
• It sounds silly to train for a training camp or cycling holiday but in my opinion, given my experience, if I were to go somewhere hilly I would train on hills in advance to ensure I got the most out of the trip and the routes available.  Also a cycling holiday or training camp more often than not involves long days and back to back days in the saddle that you may not be used to so the more training in advance the more pleasurable your experience will be.
• Research what routes are recommended.  Some rental shops will help with this and there are often routes online or once again from others who recommend or have personally tried them – we have shared our routes in Lanzarote before.  This is especially important if you are cycling self guided and not with a group.  Once you know your routes you can plan your trip accordingly for example you wouldn’t start your cycling trip with the hardest route on the first day.
• Get advice from people who have been to the destination beforehand as personal experience and recommendations are invaluable.
• Insurance is important and you will need to make sure you are covered if you have an accident as cycling abroad can be classified by some providers as an extreme sport and cover needs to be adequate for your needs.
• Kit is key depending on destination.  You don’t want to pack for every occasion but weather can change so being prepared with the essentials will help.  Even when I have been to sunny destinations for cycling I have taken a gillet and arm warmers for example in case it is windy or there is a shower – you’d be surprised how cold you can get after some rain and it can affect the remainder of your ride.
• Nutrition is good to plan – what will you take and what will you buy on arrival.  Is there anywhere to buy nutrition?  If a hot country you wouldn’t necessarily pack something that could melt when having a long day in the saddle.  But do plan especially if you are having long days in the saddle or climbing a hydration and fuelling will be key.

If you travel with your bike like me then investing in a good bike box is key and I love my Bike Box Alan, which although not cheap are worth every penny and if you travel regularly it is worth the cost as it pays for itself after a few trips rather than paying for hiring all the time.  I wrote a blog post on travelling with a bike you can read here.

I welcome any recommendations of places I should add to my list too – nothing better than a personal recommendation to go by!

Why do you ride?  Earlier in the year as part of the British Cycling campaign One In A Million, a campaign trying to get one million more women on bikes by 2020, I shared a number of stories from inspiring ladies I knew who cycled.  Whilst doing this I got to understand the main reasons why some of them cycled.  The three main reasons that kept coming up were the sense of freedom, personal challenge and the social aspect and I think it is safe to say this is not just limited to women either!

When looking at the social aspect I could relate to this personally.  I like to ride with others, I enjoy being part of a club and I, like many others, am more than happy to ride for cake!

I am based in Hornchurch in Essex and so my rides are all to destinations I can get to from close to home and I thought I would share some of my favourites:

• Blue Egg – Great Bardfield – this is super popular with cyclists in the area and the place itself is made up of several different companies but the cafe is Knead Food.  The route I have for this ride is around a 90 mile round trip and a stop here could be breakfast, lunch, snack or cake.  The full English is fab and I can recommend the carrot cake  and the quiche too.  Sadly closed on bank holidays.

• Andrewsfield Airfield – Great Dunmow – not too far from the Blue Egg (is actually about 2 miles on the route I take).  They do a nice breakfast and also lunches and main meals.  Take cash though as they do not accept card payments.
• Bakehouse – Chelmsford – this is a regular stop for many cyclists in the area.  There is also one in Maldon though I have not yet been there.  Again this is a popular stop for cyclists especially in summer months.  Both indoor seating and a pretty courtyard to seat in too with lots of bike racking available.  I can recommend all the food – been her for breakfasts, lunches, cakes and more!
• Blackmore Tea Rooms – Blackmore – this is another regular stop and another popular choice with many a local cycle club.  It is not that far from the Bakehouse.   Really lovely scones, cream and jam.

• Tiptree Tea Rooms – Tiptree – famous for their jams and really tasty homemade cakes.  They also sell mini bottles of tiptree gin (not for when riding obviously but small enough to fit in a cycle jersey!).
• Paper Mill Lock – Little Baddow – the tea rooms are on the canal and popular in the summer with lots of outdoor seating.  And after you have eaten you then have the delight of North Hill to cycle up!

• The Snug – High Easter – really tasty freshly baked cakes and super friendly staff.
• The Booking Hall – Rayne – great red velvet cake!  Such a quirky little place that used to be an old train station.  Lots of bike racks here too as it is another popular choice with cyclists.
• Hanningfield Cafe on the Water – Hanningfield – it is as the name suggests with the cafe overlooking the reservoir.  Lots of bike parking and large area on the decking to sit and eat.
• Pete’s Place – Ramsden Heath – the first time I visited here I cycled round the back to the garden area and it was full of pink, black and grey as the Rapha club had cycled out to here.  Food is always great and staff are brilliant.  Freshly made cakes and yes in the picture that is a cadbury cream egg, wrapped in chocolate cake and dipped in chocolate – need I say more?  This cafe is now under new management and renamed Pete’s Place – I am yet to visit it since the change so will update once I have been there!

• Butts Green Garden Centre – Chelmsford – found this little gem when on an organised Specialized ride and honestly I wouldn’t have necessarily thought of stopping at a garden centre and yet they have the best cafes, just like this one!
• Nerissa & Claires – Ongar – great hot chocolate!
• Norton Heath Cafe – Norton Heath – delicious all day breakfast though limited where to leave bikes.
• Owls Hill Tea Room – Terling – the cutest little cafe with seating inside and outside under gazebos, bike racks and lovely surrounding country lanes popular with cyclists.

• Peterboat – Leigh on Sea – note a cafe but a pub that has become a firm favourite especially after the London to Southend bike ride.  Loads of seating outside with plenty of space to leave bikes and a huge menu.
• Liana’s Tea Shop – Hornchurch – this is a little gem I discovered only recently, recommended by some friends.  It is not far from where I live so tends to be a stop at the end of a ride and something nice to look forward to.  All the cakes are home made and the flavours differ from one week to the next.  I am a sucker for nice china and a teapot and this place did not disappoint.  Very welcoming and as it is in the courtyard on Langtons there is ample space to leave bikes too, with seating both outside and indoors.

Happy cycling and if you know of anywhere else I should visit on my cycles please let me know.